September 20th, 2019 – Mass MoCA & FreshGrass.

Right from the beginning, the weather is perfect, the architecture intriguing, and the trees are being hung upside down. Triffid torture? Perhaps. There wasn’t an immediately obvious artist statement (something that turned out to be rather unique through most of the complex) so the exploration begins in mystery)

I’m not going to add all my photographs of Mass MoCA here. It’s a sprawling arts complex of many buildings, installations and beautiful things that FreshGrass Music Festival takes over once a year and the results are hard to describe. Mass MoCA in North Adams, MA itself is something like a more conservative City Museum – like – it all still feels like a Living, breathing sculpture that you walk around and get lost in – but you can’t climb on stuff!

We got invited to play at FreshGrass less than a week in advance and Heather’s excitement over it was HUGE (she’d been part of their songwriting contest last year) – and as performers, we not only got perks like discounts in the gift store and a nice hotel with breakfast to boot – but we had an all-weekend-long pass to Mass MoCA even BEFORE the festival opened, so for most of Friday we almost literally had the whole complex to ourselves.

Mass MoCA is built over, around, under and through a 26 building, 200 year-old industrial complex that started off around the Revolutionary War with a brick yard, saw mill, various manufacturers and machine shops… the armor plates for the Monitor were forged here. The feel of the place is mostly that if an early 20th century industrial site, but little hints of the truly OLD history peeks through in some of the buildings.
The town of North Adams, MA itself is integral to the overall museum – and it’s beautiful the way this town peeks through stained glass into the complex itself.

For as much as I kind of thought it was silly to arrive as early as we did – Heather was dead on – being able to just wander this immense gallery without the intrusion of other people was absolutely the best way to experience it. We spent time lost, wandering from building to building through singing hallways, exploring the bellies of beasts and artists’ mounds.

The festival was great too – and by the end of the first day I must admit I was kind of saturated – but that’s what sleep and dreams are for!

Thoughts on Mass MoCA as a museum….

The complex is stunning. It feels endless. We got there at 11.30am and wandered till our load-in at 6.30pm and felt like we’d seen it all – but ONLY because two buildings wouldn’t be open till tomorrow.

Heather and I both really, really Loved the work shown in the “Suffering From Realness” exhibition. Intense, beautiful work including stunningly lush (but monochromatic) oil paintings and sculpture by Vincent Valdez, the latter w Adriana Corral, incorporating the ash burned from another part of the exhibit – something unknown and unknowable till you read more about the exhibit in the accompanying pamphlet.

Heather mentioned the thing about how it feels like a more “grown-up” version of City Museum, but I’m going to use the word “conservative” because… and maybe both of us have got it right and a little bit wrong. Despite City Museum’s use of the word “Museum”, Mass MoCA is much more museumy – with artist statements and clearly delineated gallery spaces that are respectful of the original building but very carefully climate controlled and well lit. There are moments when this worked better than others… moments when the “museumishness” took me out of the artist’s seeming intent… and other moments when I felt like we’d chosen to dispose of museum standards at JUST the wrong moment. The additional explanations and pieces that I’d grown used to abandon you at weird times, wondering what exactly is going on around you.

Trenton Doyle Hancock’s concept of arranging thoughts and memories into “mounds”, and the characters and stories that inhabit them, was one of those pieces in which the WORLD and the MUSEUM didn’t quite speak to one another. Here are works that feel strange and out of place in the silent, echoing church like structure of Mass MoCA. Of course, in any other environment perhaps they’d be cramped and we wouldn’t have been able to take our time with this strangeness – but it’s uncomfortable to have these artifacts given piecemeal and patchy existence in this massive, stone and brick chamber. (I like it, merely critiquing presentation!)

Much of the history of the building is hinted at in placards around the facility, weird little stories (like how the new owners realized a factory worker had been effectively Living in the clock tower secretly) and some of the exhibits are downright hidden (a “gallery” of playable instruments, the only part of the place that seems to be hands on, was only discovered when a guard opened an otherwise unnoticed door and ushered us into the room!).

About Anselm Kiefer…

What is IN THERE?!?!?!?

Though there seemed to be confusion on the topic, the Anselm Kiefer building was NOT open which really, really sucks. He’s been a favourite of mine for decades and I find his work to be profoundly affecting. I really wanna see what’s in that building….

About Sol LeWitt…

I’ve never been into Sol LeWitt. On the page he’s just another block painter with an obsession with colour theory. He was great to study but he never did anything for me. Seeing a piece in a gallery just made me see the same thing only BIGGER, doing nothing for me, but LOUDER.

But here at MassMoCA there’s two floors of his work, and you are pressed into the ENVIRONMENT (minus the inclusion of the artists’ placards, which here seem arbitrary and useless – let me wander in this world, I don’t need to identify THIS piece as “Bands of Equal Width in Colour 7” or THAT piece as “Horizontal Brushstrokes”. They kiiinda speak for themselves as far as that goes) – and in THIS context, falling into the sublimation of colour and geometry, it feels like what I should’ve been understanding all along. Living in the world of it all, not trying to appreciate it piece meal.

About the Festival

Our stage in Courtyard C was certainly the wee stage, but a lot of fun, and we’re right in the way of ANYONE going from point A to point B. The bleed from the main stage was atrocious, but that just meant we had to be a little atrocious ourselves.
Anna Tivel performing at the FreshGrass Festival right before us. Though our rambunctious ways meant that we combated sound bleed quite effectively, Anna’s a lot quieter. Despite that, she performed with ultimate panache and I really admired her delivery in the face of sonic adversity. But then again… she really IS that incredible. (also, photo is to be noted for the inclusion of my nemesis : CABLE RAMPS)

FreshGrass is one of the most satisfying festival experiences I’ve had in recent memory. I can’t separate that from the museum, but since this is where the festival Lives, I guess I don’t have to. Apparently there are pop-up shows IN the museum all weekend in addition to the 3 or 4 big stages.

The music was great, with of course a bluegrass-centrism, but branching out into different Americana / Roots territories that kept it from being to monoculture.

Andrew Bird capped off the evening and he was… awesome. Cool Live looping integrated into his band, incredible violin, cool drumming – and of course – the whistling.

T’was a good day!

It wasn’t a PERFECT day though. I had to pull my pickup apart and rewire it after it came rather dramatically loose during our FreshGrass set. And this is the ONE TIME we’re not traveling with a PA system, so I have no way to test this device till our show tomorrow! Meep!

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